Возможна ли переделка шуруповерта или другого электроинструмента на литиевые аккумуляторы и как это сделать правильно. В этой статье мы попытались разъяснить некоторые моменты для начинающих самодельщиков и подобрали бюджетные комплектующие неплохого качества.
Немного о преимуществах лития перед привычными никель-металл-гидридными и никель-кадмиевыми АКБ.
Правила использования никель-кадмия и никель-металл-гидрида обязывают перед зарядом разряжать аккумулятор полностью, иначе его емкость стремительно падает. Не соблюдая эти правила, аккумулятор долго служить не сможет. А полный заряд у них длится около 10 часов, что весьма не быстро.
Литиевые аккумуляторы лишены этого недостатка. Их можно заряжать с любого уровня. И заряд возможен в разы быстрее. Полный цикл заряда от 0 до 100% при использовании правильного зарядного устройства может занимать около полутора часов. А для аккумуляторов с возможностью быстрого заряда — менее часа.
При одинаковом с NiCd или Ni MH обьеме и массе литиевый аккумулятор будет в разы более ёмким, а значит его будет хватать на больший обьем работы. К тому же литиевые аккумуляторы имеют низкий саморазряд, долговечнее и легче никель-кадмиевых и никель-металл-гидридных АКБ.
Подобным образом возможно переделать не только шуруповерт, но и другие аккумуляторные гаджеты и устройства с питанием от батареек.
Выбор типа химии литиевых аккумуляторов
В первую очередь нужно определиться с выбором типа химии литиевых аккумуляторов. Здесь два варианта — либо литий железо фосфатные (LiFePO4), либо литий ионные (Li Ion). Но в любом случае при работе на такую мощную нагрузку нужно учитывать что аккумулятор должен быть способен отдавать необходимый ток без вреда для своего самочувствия! Разберем кратко особенности этих типов аккумуляторов.
Рабочая температура
Если предполагается пользоваться шуруповертом при минусовых температурах, то лучше выбрать литий железо фосфатные (LiFePO4) аккумуляторы. Диапазон температур при котором можно их разряжать -20 ~ 65 °С. У Li Ion емкость на морозе падает быстрее. Если работа в основном планируется при плюсовых температурах, то подойдут и те и другие. Но оба типа аккумуляторов (за исключением некоторых моделей LiFePO4) нельзя заряжать при отрицательной температуре. А верхний предел температуры при заряде у тех и других около 60°С.
Габариты и вес
При одинаковой емкости, LiFePO4 аккумуляторы практически в полтора раза тяжелее и больше по обьему чем Li Ion.
Долговечность
Количество полных циклов заряд/разряд у LiFePO4 аккумуляторов более 1000, у Li Ion менее 500. Но! Если не до 0% разряжать и не до 100% заряжать, то количество циклов существенно возрастает. Хранение любые литиевые аккумуляторы лучше всего переносят наполовину заряженные при температуре 0 +10°C. Подробнее о хранении можно почитать в этой статье.
Рабочее напряжение
Одна ячейка Li Ion аккумулятора при 100% заряде имеет напряжение 4,2 В, при полном разряде около 3 — 2,5 В. Среднее рабочее напряжение 3,7 В.
Одна ячейка LiFePO4 аккумулятора при 100% заряде имеет напряжение 3,6 В, при полном разряде около 2 В. Среднее рабочее напряжение 3,2 В.
Исходя из этого считаем количество последовательно соединенных ячеек для получения необходимого напряжения на выходе АКБ. Это принято обозначать числом последовательных ячеек + символ S (serial — последовательный). Напряжение при таком соединении суммируется.
Li Ion: 1S-4,2 В, 2S-8,4 В, 3S-12,6 В, 4S-16,8 В, 5S-21 В…
LiFePO4: 1S-3,6 В, 2S-7,2 В, 3S-10,8 В, 4S-14,4 В, 5S-18 В…
То есть к примеру, для 12 вольтового шуруповерта нужна АКБ Li Ion 3S, либо LiFePO4 4S.
Рабочий ток
В характеристиках аккумулятора обычно указывают номинальный и максимальный (пиковый) ток разряда. При номинальном токе он способен работать продолжительное время, а при пиковом — несколько секунд. Поэтому для такой мощной нагрузки как шуруповерт необходимо обращать внимание на этот показатель и выбирать высокотоковые модели аккумуляторов.
На холостом ходу 12 вольтовый шуруповерт средней мощности потребляет ток 1-2 А, а при максимальной нагрузке (особенно в заторможенном состоянии) ток может достигать 30 А. Поэтому, если предполагается использовать например, аккумулятор GTF HG2 18650 3000 мАч с номинальным и пиковым токами соответственно 10А и 25А, то необходимо делать сборку минимум 3S2P, чтобы не перегружать аккумуляторы. При параллельном соединении двух аккумуляторов допустимые токи удваиваются, при соединении трех — утраиваются и т.д.
Защитная плата BMS
При эксплуатации литиевых аккумуляторов нельзя допускать заряда выше и разряда ниже нормы по напряжению. Для литий ионных максимально допустимое напряжение на ячейке составляет 4,25 В, минимальное 2,5-3,0 В (варьируется в зависимости от модели). Для литий железо фосфатных максимум 3,65 В, минимум 2,0 В.
Если выходить за эти пределы, элемент будет деградировать и преждевременно потеряет ёмкость или выйдет из строя. В зависимости от типа химии последствия перезаряда и переразряда могут быть от простого выхода из строя до воспламенения! Поэтому следует всегда использовать защитную плату BMS. Она отключит АКБ при переразряде, перезаряде, коротком замыкании. Подробнее о работе BMS рассказано в этой статье.
Поскольку рабочие напряжения у Li Ion и LiFePO4 разные, BMS нужно выбрать именно под свой тип аккумулятора. BMS для LiFePO4 не подойдет к Li Ion и наоборот. При выборе также смотрим на ток срабатывания защиты, он должен быть не больше максимального тока который выдает батарея в пиковом кратковременном режиме. Иначе в аварийной ситуации защита по току не успеет сработать и отключить АКБ. Если Вы прочитали статью про BMS, то уже знаете, что в нашем случае гораздо правильнее выбирать плату BMS с функцией балансировки (balance).
Платы BMS литий ионных аккумуляторов:
3S, 4S 40A/60А с балансировкой и без (выбирать лучше с балансировкой -Balanced version)
3S, 4S, 5S 100А (3,7В) с балансировкой
Платы BMS литий железо фосфатных аккумуляторов:
3S, 4S, 5S 50 А с балансировкой
3S, 4S, 5S 100A (3,2B) с балансировкой
Зарядное устройство
Подробно о методике заряда литиевых аккумуляторов написано в этой статье. Зарядное устройство (ЗУ) можно купить готовое, можно доработать старое от никелевой АКБ. Адаптер/блок питания и зарядное устройство это не одно и то же. ЗУ должно уметь работать в режиме CC/CV (постоянный ток / постоянное напряжение) иметь максимальное напряжение равное напряжению полностью заряженной АКБ.
Готовые зарядные устройства:
12,6 В (3S)/ 16,8 В(4S)/ 21 В(5S), на 1А и 2А с разъёмом 5,5×2,1 мм
Стандартное зарядное устройство от никелевых аккумуляторов можно доработать с помощью DC-DC понижающего модуля с поддержкой ограничения напряжения и тока (CC-CV). Но так как оно рассчитано на заряд никелевых аккумуляторов, от него не добиться хорошего тока. В основном это ток порядка 500 мА. Литиевый аккумулятор конечно заряжаться будет, но делать он это будет долго. Аккумулятор 2 А/ч будет заряжаться таким током порядка 4 часов.
Модуль для переделки стандартного зарядного устройства шуруповерта:
Если всё таки решили делать ЗУ своими руками, вот хороший недорогой модуль:
Понижающий модуль DC-DC с 5-32В до 0,8-30В, выходной ток до 5А цена на момент публикации 120р. (5 китайских Ампер видимо только с хорошим охлаждением, без охлаждения нормально работает с током до 2 А).
Настройка тока и напряжения происходит с помощью многооборотных резисторов и удаётся довольно точно выставить нужные значения. Левый резистор — ток, правый — напряжение.
Для установки тока нужно сначала выкрутить резистор против часовой стрелки, замкнуть выход амперметром накоротко и, ориентируясь на его показания добавлять ток до нужного значения.
Первый модуль на токе 4А сгорел за две минуты, перегрелась микросхема и вышла из строя. После этого более чем на 2А я не рискнул нагружать оставшиеся модули. Вообще при работе нагревается больше всего микросхема, диод и дроссель.
Доработка в виде бесплатного радиатора из многожильного медного провода облегчит жизнь самым греющимся деталям. Провод просто припаивается и распушивается так, чтобы не задевать другие детали. С такой доработкой я ради эксперимента поднял зарядный ток до 3А. Выглядит ужасно, но эксперимент показал, что даже такой простой метод работает. Медь отлично проводит тепло, а пайка хорошо обеспечивает теплопередачу на неё. С охлаждением дросселя ничего не придумал и оставил как есть.
В итоге получился такой зарядник. Светодиод индикации заряда вывел в отверстие на корпусе и залил термоклеем.
Высокотоковые литий ионные аккумуляторы подходящие для шуруповерта:
Я использовал аккумуляторы VC18650VTC4 3,7 V на 2100 мА/ч.
После трёх месяцев работы в шуруповетре повторно измерил их ёмкость и она уменьшилась всего на 20 мА/ч.
Также для шуруповерта такой мощности можно использовать эти аккумуляторы:
GTF HG2 18650 3000 мАч номинальный ток 10А, пиковый 25А, заряд током до 3А
SONY VTC6 18650 3000 мАч номинальный ток 10А, пиковый 30А, заряд током до 3А
Разьемы для подключения зарядного устройства:
Если использовать стандартную зарядную станцию, доработав её под новый тип аккумуляторов DC-DC модулем, то не придется использовать дополнительные разъёмы.
Разъёмы 5,5 мм * 2,1 мм подходят к стандартным готовым зарядкам из списка выше.
Разъем (мама) 10 шт/5шт 3А 5,5×2,1 мм
Комплект разъемов 5шт (мама + папа) 5,5×2,1 мм
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